West Africa is not a popular travel destination. The standard fixes proposed for making West Africa more attractive are getting rid of visas, making it easier to cross borders, eradicating malaria, improving infrastructure, creating and maintaining tourist attractions and maybe improving transportation within and between countries. The real fix: people need to change their mindset about traveling.
The recipe for changing your mindset is outlined in a book called Vagabonding by Rolph Potts. When I read this book, I realized the countries in West Africa didn’t need to change for me to put them on my travel list. I needed to change.
Here are a few of my favorite quotes from the book
- Peculiar travel suggestions are dancing lessons from God
- We find after years of struggle that we do not take a trip; a trip takes us
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Whatever the original motivation for going someplace, remember that you’ll rarely get what you expect when you go there—and this is almost always a good thing
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In fact, having an adventure is sometimes just a matter of going out and allowing things to happen in a strange and amazing new environment—not so much a physical challenge as a psychic one.
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The secret of adventure, then, is not to carefully seek it out but to travel in such a way that it finds you.
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If travel truly is in the journey and not the destination, if travel really is an attitude of awareness and openness to new things, then any moment can be considered travel.
If you are willing to test pilot this philosophy, here are three great travel destinations in West Africa.
Abidjan, Côte d’Ivoire
In 2015, I drove my motorcycle from Cotonou, Benin to Abidjan, Côte d’Ivoire. Colleagues and friends always claimed Abidjan was the best city in West Africa. I had to confirm.
Outside finding couchsurfing hosts at stops along my way, my only plan was to keep an attitude of awareness and openness to new things. What this looks like in reality: walking around, talking with random people, taking photos, meeting couchsurfing hosts, saying yes to anything they propose doing.
When I arrived in Abidjan, it was dark already. I had spent 12 hours traveling from the Cape Coast in Ghana. A few of those hours were spent negotiating with the Ivorian border police about paying for a laissez passer and at least one hour was spent hiding from a torrential downpour under a makeshift roadside stand.
When I arrived, I criss crossed the city on the beautiful bridges and marveled at the big buildings in downtown Plateau neighborhood. I arrived in front of the university and asked to borrow a motorcycle taxi’s phone to call my couchsurfing host. He told me he wasn’t home. In fact, he wasn’t even in Abidjan, but he arranged for an Ivorian friend to meet me and take me to his house.
When we got to the house, I threw my stuff on the living room floor and asked the Ivorian what his idea of a fun night in Abidjan looks like. He said pre-game with Drogba beers, then bar hop in zone 4.
Zone 4 is worth the visit alone. It’s a neighborhood with the highest density of fun per capita in the whole region. Ivorians dance crazily and laugh easily.
We walked around all night, going from high end dance clubs to hole in the wall bars. Nothing special happened, but that was ok. I simply enjoyed observing the rhythm and flow of a typical Abidjan Saturday night, and once in awhile, feeling part of it.
The next day, I woke up late and jumped in a taxi to the Plateau, the Manhattan of West Africa. There, my couchsurfing host met up with me. We walked around all day, talking about life in West Africa and taking photos.
Dassa, Benin Republic
When people visit Benin Republic, Dassa is rarely on the itinerary. Cotonou, Ouidah, Grand Popo, Pendjari, Abomey, yes. But never Dassa.
This is a mistake. Here’s why:
- Pounded yams: Dassa has the best pounded yams and peanut sauce in the country. Just ask people where the best place to go is.
- The hills: Dassa is the land of 41 hills. You can climb the hill at the center of town and feel on top of the world. Just walk behind the big catholic church and keep going up. Alternatively, you could get a guide at chez Armand. You should also watch the sunset on the Colline des amoureux (Lovers Hill).
- The Idaasha: The majority of folks in Dassa are Idaasha. The language is very similar to Yoruba, so you may be able to get by without speaking French if you’re a Yoruba speaker. The hills of granite stone are very important in Idaasha culture and it’s worth sitting down with someone and asking why.
- Hippos: There’s a river not too far from Dassa with hippos. Best time is the dry season. You can organize a trip to see the hippos with Armand at chez Armand.
- Relaxation: There’s a swimming pool at Jeco hotel that is very refreshing. You don’t have to be a guest to swim.
Bamako, Mali
Bamako/Mali holds enchantments far deeper than its coastal neighbors. The uncommon elegance and ancient charm is woven into every part of life, especially its musical aesthetic. On any given night you can go out and listen to live music. The kora is mesmerising. I recommend going to the venue Songhai Blues.
If you’re feeling adventurous, you can take a trip down the Niger in a pirogue. I made a short film of a trip I took with friends last year. You can find more info on how to organize this at Hotel Restaurant BadaLodge.
Other fun activities are going to the National Park on a weekend and people watching. There’s also a small zoo attached to the park with an ostrich, elephant and lions that like to roar.